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Writer's pictureHawys Boobier

Tiella - Restaurant Review

Down an alley in hip and happening Highbury is The Compton Arms, a quaint and cosy neighbourhood pub more befitting the countryside than central London. The Compton’s history dates back to the 1800s, and is said to have been a regular watering hole of the author and poet George Orwell when he lived in Canonbury Square in the 1940s.


The Compton Arms is no stranger to restaurant residencies; this is where the now infamous Four Legs burger made its debut. Its latest resident, Tiella, a rustic Puglian kitchen and the brainchild of Dara Klein (formerly of Brawn and Trullo) is no less impressive.





The space


We visited on a Friday night during the Euros when the pub was understandably awash with football buzz. Our booked table was in the ‘Snug’; a cosy corner tucked away behind the bar. The Snug was a welcome oasis and the perfect setting for the comforting yet elegant food to follow.


Tiella’s staff were welcoming and knew the menu like the back of their hand. They were more than happy to recommend, suggest and curate a selection of dishes for us.


The food


Tiella’s menu is made up of small plates, with waiters suggesting around 3 dishes per person. The food arrived as and when it was ready and this is what we ate.


We couldn’t not start with the semolina sourdough with Pugliese olive oil. The warm, fluffy bread was the ideal vehicle for sponging up the reassuringly bitter oil, as well as all the delectable sauces in the dishes to follow.


The honeymoon melon, barattiere cucumber, pecorino and mint was a refreshing starter. The saltiness of the pecorino cut through the soft sweetness of the peachy-orange and mint-green melon medley.


We devoured the dessert-like soft ricotta, which came doused with a calabrian sweet chilli sauce and drizzled with honey.


Next we had the tuna, tomato, borlotti and friggitelli salad, where the succulent, flaky tuna was the star of the show. The fish was perfectly balanced with the tangy tomatoes and lightly grilled green friggitelli peppers, and came splashed with a rich, ochre-coloured oil.


The pastas deserve a special mention, namely the gnocchetti sardi, pomodoro and squacquerone. Springy mini gnocchi bobbed in a shallow pool of tangy tomato sauce with warming dollops of cheese. The tagliatelle with prawns, crunchy grezzina courgette, garlic and chilli didn’t disappoint either. 


The verdict


Tiella’s popularity is unquestionably deserved. From the ambiance to the superlative quality of the ingredients to the perfectly-portioned plates, if you’re an Italian food fan (who isn’t?), the Tiella experience is blissful. Booking is essential so reserve your table now!


Tiella at The Compton Arms

4 Compton Ave, London 

N1 2XD

020 7354 8473

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