As we hurtled down a windy mountain road in the pitch darkness in a rickety taxi, I wondered why we had decided to come back to Kaș. A two-and-a-half hour drive from the nearest airport Dalaman, it was hardly an obvious choice with a toddler and my parents in tow. Couldn’t we have picked somewhere closer?
Thankfully, the twinkling lights of the town came into view just before my partner Sarty threw up and before our toddler Moira lost her mind. It was midnight by the time we bundled into our spacious rooms at Payam Hotel, a 10-minute walk from the centre of Kaș.
The next morning, eating my breakfast in a covered garden perched above the sea with an unobstructed view of the Greek island of Kastellorizo, I remembered exactly why I’d fallen in love with Kaș on my debut trip to Turkey three years before. Not to mention the small benefit of it being 26 degrees in the middle of October.
With a history dating back to the Bronze Age, the old fishing village of Kaș sits between Antalya and Bodrum on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. It’s much lesser known than its neighbours, yet the overwhelming feeling when you arrive in Kaș is one of wonder that you’ve never heard of it before.
Kaș is understated without compromising on beauty; locals are friendly and laid back, and the overall feeling is classy and chillrf.
Kaș isn't big; you can do a full walking circuit of the town in about 20 minutes. Cobbled, hilly streets provide the perfect backdrop for holiday snaps, and provide a welcome workout after a lazy day at the beach or an overindulgent meal (especially when pushing a pram)!
The old town streets are lined with artisan shops selling linen clothes, on-trend Turkish rugs and hand-painted crockery in happy blue and yellow hues. This part of town is geared towards holidaymakers, and with bright bougainvillea trickling artfully down the facades of the stone buildings it’s easy to see why.
The old town is where the main concentration of restaurants is too, and many have impressive roof terraces with views over the port.
We took in the sights at Dolphin restaurant where we enjoyed a feast of falling-off-the-bone lamb, and dips including a standout spiced fava bean spread. We also loved fish restaurant Voyn Meyhane. Here we ordered an array of seafood prepared in different ways, from aubergines stuffed with prawns to tangy fresh anchovies floating in dark green olive oil with chilli. The lively atmosphere makes Voyn Meyhane popular for birthday parties and celebrations too.
Kaș’ main square has a fairground feel, and is lined with brightly lit dondurian (ice cream) and waffle stalls. It’s an enjoyable spot for people-watching; excitable children’s squeals fill the air and the chatter of people at one of the square’s many bars provides the backing vocals.
Atatürk Blv is where the locals (or at least the Turkish tourists) eat. We got the warmest welcome at family-run Yesil; after picking our dishes by pointing at various delectable-looking pots inside, we sat on the kerb eating pig trotter soup, peppers stuffed with rice and herbs, and crispy pide with sucuk (Turkish sausage).
For traditional kebabs, Iskender and all those dishes you might have tried in your local Turkish restaurant back at home, Ege is the place to go. Spiced meats are served with crunchy salads garnished with tart pickled onions and an expertly-measured sprinkle of berry-red sumac.
Kaș’ beach selection is breathtaking. Bring your beach shoes - rocky is the norm here - but the trade-off for sand lovers are sparkly seas and dramatic green backdrops.
On Buyukcakil, also known as ‘Big Pebble Beach’, the bay is packed with sunbeds, and adorned with restaurants which can be described as rustic at best, though service is friendly and attentive. At Ada Beach restaurant we ate lightly-fried John Dory with a saltiness that suggested having only been hauled out of the sea minutes beforehand. Post-lunch an ice-cold Efes was delivered to our loungers at the click of a button.
Inçebogaz is a scenic beach on the gateway to the Kaș peninsula. It looks directly onto the Kaș marina opposite, which makes this patch of sea feel more like a lagoon. It’s not unusual to spot some fancy yachts floating around here, though the beach itself is very low key. The shallow waters of Inçebogaz are perfect for kids; many families pitch up here after school for a sunset swim.
A twenty-minute drive away from Kaș town centre is Kaputaș. It’s a steep drop from the cliff top down to the biscuit-coloured sand, but the vista from the top makes it easy to see why this impressive-looking beach is a familiar sight on the covers of travel guides.
You can hop into the sea from most places in Kaș. Hotels embellish the town’s coastline and most have their own decks with loungers and ladders into the water. Even if you’re not a guest at a hotel, you can usually pay a nominal amount to spend anything from a few hours to a day there.
Kaș Otel has all the facilities you would need for a day’s sunbathing and swimming, including a jumping platform and refreshing frozen watermelon juice.
Kaș is also home to the well-preserved remains of a Hellenistic amphitheatre built in 1BC. If you climb to the top of the 26-tier structure you’ll be rewarded with views over the town and the port.
With Kastellorizo only 30 kilometres and a 20-30 minute ferry ride from Kaș, a day trip to Greece is an easy way to add variety to your holiday. The passport control process can be cumbersome but it’s worth it for the opportunity to roam around this tiny, colourful island.
We swapped our Efes for a Mythos and sat outside Cafe Remezzo on the waterfront, taking in the view of Kaș across the water. You can also take a boat taxi to a beach or visit the Blue Grotto, a magical cave where the bright aqua shade of the water illuminates the walls.
A week is plenty of time in Kaș, though you'll probably find you want to go back year on year. As for the long journey from the airport, well, that’s precisely what makes Kaș special - a lot of people can’t be bothered, which leaves more for the rest of us.
Comments