Nestled between Corfu to the north and Zakynthos to the south, Lefkada isn’t often top of the list when it comes to choosing a Greek island holiday.
Lefkada isn’t even really an island; it’s connected to the Greek mainland by a bridge and a causeway and is a 40-minute drive from the nearest airport Preveza.
But this Ionian beauty has dazzling landscape, a thriving restaurant scene and beaches galore. I visited Lefkada in June 2023 and here’s my roundup of the top things to do and places to go:
Beaches
Agiofilli - Agiofilli has the wow factor. As you descend a not-insignificant number of steps from the car park, you’ll be greeted by bright turquoise water lapping white pebbles. There are a handful of sunbeds and a cafe, but it’s worth bringing your own snacks to make sure you don’t have to rush back from this picturesque cove.
Mikros Gialos - One of the smaller beaches on Lefkada, Mikros Gialos is reached via a winding mountain road. It’s worth the journey to get to this charming, laid-back beach flanked by trees. Del Mare restaurant is a great spot for people-watching while you lunch on sardines and drink ice-cold house wine.
Milos - the beach at the pretty fishing village of Agios Nikitas is understandably packed, especially during high season. Instead, take a boat around the cove to Milos. This long, striking stretch of beach doesn’t have many facilities - when we visited in June the sunbeds weren’t in operation and the café closed - so bring supplies, especially water. The setting is stunning and the sea clear as glass.
Kathisma - The perfect beach to while away an entire day. Loungers, cafés, showers, parking, you name it, Kathisma probably has it. Thankfully, being well-equipped doesn’t make this beach any less attractive; the swimming is great too.
Restaurants
Varko - A perfectly-proportioned Greek salad adorned with round, chunky croutons oozing olive oil is Varko’s standout dish. This relaxed, whitewashed cafe sits overlooking Agios Ioannis beach, so you can watch the waves crash as you munch your way through the menu
Gyro Gyro - this traditional kebab joint in Lefkada Town is not to be underestimated. Mixed kebabs of chicken, pork and lamb come piled high on the plate, leaving you wondering how you’ll get through it all. A tray of multicoloured dips, crunchy onions, tomatoes and cloudy flatbreads accompany the meat mountain. If you’ve got any space left in your stomach, order the fig, feta and walnut salad for the a s
ide of tartness.
Kyma - Come here for your fish fix and don’t be afraid to try something new. We wolfed down octopus pasta and orzo with cuttlefish swimming in rich black ink. But the real star was the savoro (like whitebait or mullet) drizzled with garlic, olive oil, rosemary, barberries and vinegar.
One Red Dot - For an aperitif or post-dinner treat, you can’t beat the setting of One Red Dot. The cocktail and dessert bar sits on the corner of a quiet cobbled street in the heart of Lefkada’s old town. Think classic cocktails with a twist and sugary cookies.
Activities
Sivota is Lefkas’ yachting capital, and attracts a corresponding ‘yachty’ crowd. If yachting’s not your thing but you still fancy getting out onto the sea, you can hire a speedboat from the harbour and cruise around Lefkas’ southern coasts and over to neighbouring Meganisi. Stop off at Stavvros for lunch where the waiters will greet you with open arms and even help you anchor your boat. Sit down for some vine leaves, taramasalata and kleftiko at a table on the edge of the water.
For a nature fix that’s not the beach, check out the waterfalls at Nidri. It’s a two-hour hike to the falls but worth it for the views. The spray of the water is a refreshing welcome after a sweaty trek.
Accommodation
San Giovanni resort in Agios Ioannis is a 10-minute drive from Lefkada town centre. San Giovanni is so close to the beach that you can hop from the swimming pool to the sea in under five minutes. Rooms are spacious and modern, with many offering a view over the beach.
Villas Amantea is a small complex of elegant villas perched on the Sivota hillside, with unbeatable views over the port. The houses are self-catered but equipped with a full kitchen and barbecue. And with Sivota village just a 10-minute (downhill) walk away, it’s hard to resist the urge to enjoy an evening meal on the charming waterfront.
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